Costa Rica Cuatro Parte: Feliz Año Nuevo a la Playa

Okay, so I am a wee bit embarrassed that I am just NOW posting my final Costa Rica story. What can I say? This semester is keeping me hopping, and these entries are a little more time consuming since I am adding so many pictures to better illustrate my stories and commentary. I hope to be better. I don't want to lose my few readers out there in cyber space! So, this last one is what I call beach vignettes. It is more about impressions and thoughts that I had while lazing away at the beach. I hope you enjoy and perhaps it will warm you up in spirit as we wait for the last of winter to finish up for this year. And, if you make it to the end, there is a really cute picture as your reward for sticking with me.

Do you see the little hermit crab nestled in the shells?

Where we Stayed:

For the New Year and start of 2011, we headed to the beach. We stayed in a beach house borrowed from friends of my in-laws that was right on the beach. It has that rustic charm that all part-time use beach houses have. You know what I mean, right? The type of place where it is about the location, not the décor: very simply decorated, mismatched furniture, with lots of beds; mismatched dishes and silverware with random bits of cookware; piles of found treasures from the beach. We have all stayed in that beach house, no? Our location was the Playa de Esterilllo, just north of Dominical on the Pacific side. It was not a touristy type of place. It was a tico type of place. Life at the beach is always lazy. Walks on the beach. Lots of reading. Shell collecting. Eating. Drinking. Sleeping. No pressure!

Beach Life Pictures:

R's Dad Reading

Best. Reading. Spot. Ever!

Brother-in-law taking a nap with Peanut

Yes, I am reading. I am on vacation.

Our Beach Walk on Playa Hermosa:

R and his parents

Fossils!

My attempts to be artistic

R and a big @$$ tre

Could this be any more precious?

Sunsets:

I am a sucker for sunsets, and this trip did not let me down. We had two beautiful sunsets, and one cloudy one. I feel like I have become a bit of an expert since living in Flagstaff. I have realized that there are a few key elements to a good sunset. First, you have to have a good background view with minimal obstructions. Second, you need some clouds. To fully capture the gloriousness, you need to have those reflections on the clouds that show all the myriads of colors. Tonight, they looked like cotton candy at one point. Then they were this crazy pink gold color which began shifting to shades of lavender and deep shocking pink as the sun hits the horizon of the ocean. There is just something magical about watching the sun set over water or the mountains.

Feliz Año Nuevo:

Cava

We made it midnight, which, we often do not regardless of where we find ourselves that year. I find New Year’s to be one of those overrated holidays with so much pressure to make it epic every time. I think it is because we all do have one or two of those epic nights that you think you are expected to have every year, and I just don’t think it is possible. Well, perhaps, if you are filthy rich, you could make it epic every year, but the reality is that some are just going to be rather chill. And really, I am okay with that.

It took R and I about two days to even remember where and what we were doing last year, which was the first signal that it was probably not some spectacular adventure. We finally concluded that we spent it in Dallas at home fixing a nice dinner and that after watching the ball drop in Times Square, and a really bad performance of Umbrella by Rhiannon two hours before our own Central time zone midnight. I think we were in bed before midnight! Kay, enough digression! I think my bragging rights are that I have celebrated a New Year’s in every time zone in the United States, and in Costa Rica. So, that is kinda cool, right?

We have spent several at the beach in Costa Rica, hmmm, I guess this is my third? And they have definitely been of the relaxed variety. This is to be expected since we tend to be staying in a fairly remote area in a beach house. We are not in some busy little tourist town with bars to party at. I remember on my first New Year’s visit that I was the only one to make it to midnight. Happy New Year’s to me, eh? The second time, some friends came with us, so we made it to midnight. However, we were at a small isolated hotel, so it was us and a family made up of a mix of Costa Ricans and Americans from Alabama. We celebrated by the pool and did the countdown in Spanish and toasted with Imperial beer. Fun, but not epic!

This year, I was the one dragging, although I made myself stay up to ring in 2011. I should mention that part of it is that you operate on beach time. Sunrise comes early and you don’t have shades to block the sunlight as that would cut down on the needed air circulation. Most of us are up by 7 am. We spend all day in the warm sun either exploring or lying around on the beach. Tough work, I know, but the heat along with the vacation mentality zaps your energy. Most nights we are sleepy and drifting off to bed starting around 10 pm.

Beach Night Life: Skipbo and beer

What saved me and kept me distracted was the SkipBo game we found in the house. I have heard of this game but never played. It is a mindless and addictive card game, and we have played it pretty much every night.

We brought in the New Year with Cava and toasts with the sound of (come on, you can guess it) of fireworks in the background. After that, I was ready for bed. Happy New Year to me!

The Weather Report:

You always think you are prepared to make the climate change when you travel, but it is still somewhat unexpected. San Jose is at about 3000 feet. Since it is in the tropics zone, it is still quite warm. Actually, mild might be a better way to describe it. During the times of year I have been, I have also found it quite variable. Typically you can expect it to be comfortable to cool during the days, and I tend to find I need a wrap or light sweater in the evenings. Now that I think about it, it is kind of like the Flagstaff weather I experienced this summer and fall! This trip it seemed a little cooler and windier than I anticipated. I wish I had packed more socks as I hate having cold feet. I hate when I don’t get my packing quite right. Since the house is tiled, it is unavoidable, especially when the weather is cooler. However, since I mainly packed sandals, I only packed a couple of pairs of socks for wearing with my tennis shoes. So, I had to commandeer a pair of Robert’s socks once or twice as he packed plenty. Because of the tropical climate, there is always a bit of dampness no matter where you go. Once we moved to the beach, it was much warmer, and humid. Even though I grew up in a climate with a humid summer and have pretty much continued to be in humid climates, I have quickly adapted to the dryness of Arizona. As I have mentioned before, my hair does SO much better. Now I am back to frizziness and it always looks slightly oily and heavy with the product. Yay, thin curly hair… And I forgot what it feels like to feel sticky all the time, even after you get out of the shower. You can never get quite dry after showering. Despite readjusting the sensation of a humid climate, I have welcomed the warmth and sunshine. Finally!

Central American Night Time Symphony:

Since my first visit to Central America in college (El Salvador), I have associated the smaller country towns with a cacophony or symphony (you choose) of noises at night. I remember the first few nights were always the hardest, and I felt like I was kept up all night by the ongoing, changing sounds. Although we are at the beach, really we are still just in the country and the beach just happens to be the western boundary. Typically, it seems to be the dogs in the early evening. You always have a few yappers, and sometimes many, that just don’t seem to stop. Or maybe they are talking to each other? Redefining their boundaries at the end of each day? I am never really sure. It can go on for hours, and it usually seems to be one of the sounds I finally drift asleep to.

At some point, I usually wake up to the silence of intermission while all seems to be asleep or at least resting, well it is not complete silence. Now I hear the whirring white noise of the fan and much fainter under it, the crashing and booming of the waves on the beach nearby. With both, every so often, a gecko inserts its chattering, loud call. For a creature so small, it has a voice much greater. Later, as when I awake again, the sky is getting lighter as dawn is approaching and the birds start. In the country towns of other places, it has been dominated by roosters. Like the dogs, they can seem to go on forever. Here, in a more tropical location, there are more tropical birds that fill in the spaces in between. Although, it is not part of the chorus here, the cows would greet the morning as the finale and I would fully awaken to the sounds of their lows and moos.

Peanut! And he was not one of the yappy dogs!

Costa Rica Parte Tres: Villa Vanilla and Manuel Antonio Park

We spent New Year’s Eve on a tour of a spice plantation called Ville Vanilla. This was absolutely one of the coolest things I have done in a while. For the tour, our guide explained the growing and processing methods as well as provided us a tour of the actual plantation. They grow vanilla, Ceylon cinnamon, allspice, peppercorns, chile peppers, and chocolate. It is all done organically. I am going to do my best to share some of the interesting highlights from my memory, but there may be a few inaccuracies as I am just pulling this out of my head.

Tables for drying spices and vanilla

Peppercorns and Allspice

Vanilla Beans

Bags of Drying Vanilla Beans

Vanilla is fascinating and you have a greater appreciation for it and the expense of vanilla beans and true vanilla extract once you understand the labor involved. Vanilla comes from the vanilla orchid.

The flowers have to be hand pollinated, and there is only about a one day window. Oh, and it needs to happen before 10 am because that is the preferred time window of the plant. They have to check the plants almost daily for new blossoms. After pollination, the bean will grow. It takes about 9 to 10 months to grow and then mature. After that, they go through an elaborate drying process that takes another 4 to 5 months. I also learned that vanilla beans can last for up to 40 years if stored properly.

Unripened Vanilla Beans

On the plantation, they grow a number of ornamental plants, including many blooming ones. They intentionally do this to attract all the bugs that would otherwise attack the plants they are actually cultivating. They are also trying to create a rainforest environment with the plants.

One of the many beautiful plants

And another!

They make their own compost from their goats' and cows' poop, and trimmings from all their plants.

I also learned a lot about cinnamon. What we think is cinnamon is actually a plant called Cassia that is sometimes known as Chinese or Vietnamese Cinnamon. It actually has a compound called coumarin in it that causes blood thinning, and some scientific studies suggest it is not so good for us and our liver, especially on a regular basis. However, actual cinnamon has multiple health benefits that have been indicated through studies. This link has some great information. It is essentially the bark off of a tree. After the tree is about 3 – 5 years old, it is cut down. They cut it into pieces, and do an initial peeling of the bark, then let it cure and do a second peeling of the bark. That second peeling is the cinnamon.

Peeled cinnamon trees

Cinnamon trees being peeled

Peppercorns are another one that I learned some cool stuff about.

They produce both white and black peppercorns, which are the same plant. The difference is that they harvest the black peppercorns at a younger age and un-ripened, so they are still green. For white peppercorns, they are allowed to fully ripen on the tree until red.

They are then harvested, placed in a mesh bag and put in their pond where the bacteria eats the skin off over about seven days. Obviously, this is why they are more expensive as the growing and production process is much longer and requires more steps.

Chocolate is another product of the plantation. We got to sample a cacao bean in its raw stage. It is basically a pod surrounded by this milky white flesh that is sweet and tangy at the same time, but tastes nothing like chocolate. To produce the chocolate, you have to let the seeds dry out, then they crush them with the equivalent of a huge mortar and pestle, just like the ancient Mayans use to do. This creates the cocoa nibs. These are then ground down into cocoa.

Cocoa!

Itty bitty cocoa - it always looks the same, just keeps getting bigger

At the end of the tour, they brought us to this cute little building that was basically an outside porch with a gorgeous view of the mountains.

Me and R

There, they shared a series of sweets with us that showcased their yummy spices. We started with an iced cinnamon tea that was light, refreshing, and zingy. We then had an amazing vanilla bean cheesecake topped with mango. Unfortunately, the local pastry chef who makes it will not share her recipe. Sad!

We then had homemade cinnamon ice cream on a chocolate cookie with a touch of cayenne.

Next was a choice of hot chocolates: Either a vanilla hot chocolate or Mexican hot chocolate (with a touch of cayenne). I went for the vanilla. With the hot chocolate, we got a cocoa nib cookie – their version of a chocolate chip cookie.

We ended with a visit to their spice shop. It was a great experience, and I would recommend it to anyone who is this area.

After that we headed to Manuel Antonio for lunch and to check out the park and the beach.

One of my first observations was that this area was more touristy and developed than many of other beaches I have visited in Costa Rica. We tend to end up in more out of the way locations or areas that cater more to the ticos (locals). This suits me just fine. There was a little too much English being spoke around me at lunch! I did have a lovely piece of fresh tuna on the sandwich I ordered, so I guess I can’t complain too much.

Manuel Antonio National Park is one of the most well known parks in the area. We didn't go fully through the park. We walked to one particular beach and sat down for a while to relax and enjoy the water.

I saw multiple hermit crabs just running around on the beach. They are so funny. When they realize you are right there, they just drop and hide in their shell. After a few minutes they poke their little antennas out, and if you want to mess with them, you let them know you are still there, and they freak out and hide again!

There was also lots of capuchin monkeys (white faced monkey from Breakout), and they were some of the most bold I have ever seen. They are definitely used to the humans! Several were on the ground less than two feet from me. If you see them, hold onto your stuff. They are known for being little thieves, in particular, they like hats, bags, and cameras. Yes, I am serious.